Rebel
Store Kongensgade 52
1264 København K
Telephone: +45 3332 3209
Overall rating: 7-7,5/10
Date of visit: August 2014
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Rebel “opened” in the spring of 2013. I say “opened” because the restaurant used to be called “Oubæk” after former owner and chef Rasmus Oubæk who was particularly known for his steaks with bearnaise sauce. He then left the restaurant, and Lars Petersen and Martin Hylleborg then ran the place under his name for a couple of years before they decided to change the style and the name. The food has been called both “modern bistro” and “gourmet light”.
At the time of writing each course here cost 119 kroner. Then there are supplements for lobster, caviar, and truffels if you want those added to a dish. Four courses is what they recommend if you’re quite hungry. I had four courses, while my wife at the time had two.
My first course was turbot with capers and two types of cauliflower – grilled and a cream. I also added lobster to this, which was a supplement of 89 kroner. Very nice and flavourful dish with well-cooked fish and lobster.
My wife at the time had a soup which I didn’t take a picture of for some reason.
My next course was beef tartar with pickled redcurrants, mustard, herb mayonnaise, crumble, and cress. Honestly, I chose this one because it seemed interesting, but I would have chosen something else if I could do it again – not that it was bad in any way, but simply because tartar doesn’t do much for me. Nevertheless, for what it was, it was a nice tartar.
Breast of Guinea fowl was one of the best and most tender pieces of “chicken” I’ve ever had. The slow cooked drumstick was, naturally, a tad more dry. The light foamy sauce (probably based on chicken stock or guinea fowl stock) and baby corn was s nice match. The cubes of polenta is something I’ve never understood. They added some texture to the dish but nothing else.
My wife at the time had beef striploin with cream of hip and beetroots. She had asked for it to be well-done, which in my opinion completely destroyed it, but she enjoyed this dish.
Dessert was granité and cream of berries, crumble, hazelnuts, fresh berries and caramel. Another lovely dish – great combinations and rich flavours.
So, there was hardly anything wrong with this meal. At 119 kroner per dish, a four course meal will set you back 476 kroner. As I had the lobster added, this came to a total of 565 kroner for the food only. A glass of white wine was 120 kroner, while water was 39 kroner per person. This meant 724 kroner for me, and 277 for my wife at the time (she didn’t have any wine). So, all in all not a cheap meal, neither for food nor wine. It is definitely more expensive than Cofoco, which serve similar quality food, although a tad less luxurious. But nevertheless, if you look at the quality of the food and the price level in Copenhagen it was worth it.
The service was good, helpful and low-key, which is one of the virtues of the restaurant. On the wall behind us “Just shut up!” was written in large font, as the concept is to leave out all the never-ending anecdotes about the origins of the ingredients and farming methods. There was however one thing that bothered me, which was the terrible acoustics!
Second visit:
This is just a quick update. I went here for a second time in July 2015 and felt the cooking was as good as my first visit, so I’ll just list the courses here, although this is done by memory a long time later and therefore it’s not so precise. Again, the acoustics was terrible, and I mentioned this to a waitress who didn’t seem terribly interested. But at least there’s hope that they’re going to do something about the noise.
Ravioli in a creamy sauce:
Turbot with peas and pea shoots:
Breast and thigh of quail with a leek:
Strawberries with crunch, caramel, foam, and ice cream:
Pineapple with white chocolate and sorrel:
Dansk anmeldelse
Rebel
Store Kongensgade 52
1264 København K
Telephone: +45 3332 3209
Overall rating: 7-7,5/10
Besøgets dato: August 2014
Rebel “åbnede” i foråret 2013. Jeg skriver det i gåseøjne, da restauranten tidligere gik under navnet “Oubæk”, opkaldt efter den tidligere ejer og chefkok Rasmus Oubæk, som især var kendt for sine bøffer med bearnaisesauce. Han forlod så restauranten, og Lars Peterson og Martin Hylleborg kørte så stedet videre i hans navn i et par år, inden de valgte at skifte stil og navn. Maden er blevet kaldt både “bistro moderne” og “gourmet light”.
I skrivende stund koster hver ret 119 kroner. Vil man tilføje hummer, kaviar og trøfler til visse retter, vil der være et tillæg. De anbefaler fire retter, hvis man er ret sulten. Jeg fik fire, mens min hustru fik to.
Min første ret var pighvar med capers og to slags blomkål – grillet og som en creme. Jeg tilføjede hummer til den ret, hvilket var et tillæg på 89 kroner. Dejlig og smagfuld ret med veltilberedt fisk og hummer.
Min hustru fik en suppe, som jeg af en eller anden underlig grund ikke fik et billede af.
Min næste ret var oksekødstatar med syltede ribs, sennep, urtemayonnaise, brødkrummer og karse. Jeg valgte faktisk retten, fordi den lød interessant, men hvis jeg kunne vælge om, ville jeg vælge noget andet – ikke fordi det på nogen måde var en dårlig ret, men ganske enkelt, fordi tatar ikke siger mig noget. Ikke desto var det dog en god tatar.
Et stykke bryst af perlehøne var et af de bedste og mest møre stykker “kylling”, jeg nogensinde har fået. Det langtidstilberedte lår var selvfølgelig en anelse mere tør. Den lette og skummende sauce (nok baseret på kyllinge- eller perlehønefond) og babymajs var et velvalgt match. Polenta er noget, jeg aldrig har forstået, og ternene tilføjede lidt konsistens til retten, men ellers ikke andet.
Min hustru fik striploin af oksekød med en creme af hyben samt rødbeder. Hun havde bedt om at få kødet gennemstegt, hvilket i mine øjne ødelagde det fuldstændigt, men hun nød retten.
Desserten var granité og creme af bær, crumble, hasselnødder, friske bær og karamel. Endnu en skøn ret – gode kombinationer og smag med dybde i.
Så der var ikke meget at sætte en finger på i dette måltid. Til 119 kr. per ret løber et fireretters måltid op i 565 kroner for maden alene. Et glas hvidvin kostede 120 kroner, mens vand ad libitum var 39 kroner per person. Så det endte med 724 kroner for mig og 277 kroner til min hustru (hun fik ingen vin). Så alt i alt var det ikke ligefrem et billigt måltid for hverken mad eller vin. Det er væsentligt dyrere end Cofoco, som laver mad af lignende kvalitet, om end en smule mindre luksuriøst. Men ikke desto mindre var det pengene værd, når man ser på madens kvalitet og prisniveauet i København.
Betjeningen var god, hjælpsom og diskret, hvilket er en af restaurantens dyder. På muren bag os stod der med stor skrift “så hold dog kæft!”, da konceptet var at undlade at fortælle alenlange historier om ingrediensernes oprindelse og dyrkningsmetoder. Der var dog én ting, der generede mig, og det var, at akustikken var frygtelig!
Andet besøg:
Dette er blot en hurtig opdatering. Jeg vendte tilbage til Rebel i juli 2015 og syntes, at niveauet var lige så godt som første gang. Så jeg skriver blot retterne op her, men det er gjort lang tid senere, så det er derfor ikke helt præcist. Igen var akustikken frygtelig, og jeg nævnte det over for en tjener, som ikke virkede synderligt interesseret i emnet, men man kan da håbe, at de gør noget ved larmen.
Ravioli i en cremet sauce:
Pighvar med ærter og ærteskud:
Bryst og lår af vagtel med en porre:
Jordbær med knas, karamel, skum og jordbær sorbet:
Ananas med hvid chokolade og skovsyre: